(Courtesy Photo)
By Keyia Yalcin
When I think about The Roost (aka Lake Trout), which was located on Reisterstown Road for over 25 years, the first things that come to mind are the lines. They always stretched around the side of the building, but people willingly waited. I would argue that folks waited for a few reasons: one, the food was excellent and two this was a respected Black owned business. Once you arrived inside to place your order, you would likely catch a glimpse of the proprietor, Doris Williams, bustling behind the counter. During this time, I was a kid maybe even a pre-teen, but old enough to know this woman was working hard and conscious enough to feel proud. Each time I stood in line with my Dad, I witnessed a Black, female restaurateur with lines out the door. In doing the seemingly mundane act of waiting for some Lake Trout, a seed was planted.
Years later, when my husband and I were dreaming up Fishnet, it was the idea of Doris Williams’ Lake Trout that I would hold up against the exotic Balik Ekmek (Turkish fish sandwich) from my husband’s home town of Istanbul, Turkey. Balik Ekmek was like nothing I had ever tasted before with grilled mackerel, onion and lettuce spritzed with lemon on a soft baguette. Taking these two ideas, which are an ocean apart, and trying to merge them for our entrepreneurial dream has been a worthy struggle; like most entrepreneurial dreams. Yet over these past nine years, Fishnet has slowly found its sea legs and it is now time to pay homage to that little seed of an idea started by Lake Trout.
We first have to define Lake Trout, which is a uniquely Baltimorean concept that holds a special place in Baltimore’s lexicon. There was an article published in the Baltimore Sun last year that said, ‘the word Lake Trout is the bastardization of people pronouncing “Late Trout” to describe the fish that came to Lexington Market late in the season.’ All this to say that the fish used in Lake Trout is neither trout nor is it from a lake. Lake Trout is actually headless whiting with the tail on and bones intact. It is then fried in a zesty cornmeal batter, doused with hot sauce and served with white bread. Lake Trout evokes an entire understanding of the way fish should be prepared and as a Black, female restaurateur, I have been thinking a great deal about Doris Williams’ Lake Trout. I think about it not only because I am in the business of fish, but also because it was a shining example of why small business is necessary to the fabric of our communities.
At Fishnet, we only use fresh fish and we do not own freezers or microwaves, which most people are not expecting from a 200 square foot restaurant. I bring this up because cooking from scratch is an old school, labor intensive method and this is how they cooked at The Roost too. As I talked to the Fish Monger for The Roost, I learned that thousands of pounds of fresh caught, wild whiting were delivered to the restaurant every day. In a world of frozen and farm raised fish, the fact that fresh, wild fish was being served to the community on this scale is incredibly socially responsible. In Ms. Williams’ time they just called this good cooking, but today we can really appreciate those time honored methods. Fish is one of the most sustainable proteins in the world, leaving less of a carbon footprint then beef, chicken or pork and it has great health benefits. However over the years, people have come to have such a strained relationship with fish mainly due to lack of quality and access.
As I have researched Ms. Doris Williams through articles and acquaintances, one of the things found compelling is that she ran her business for over 25 years. It is challenging to keep any small business afloat more than five years, but the restaurant business is notoriously difficult. The fact that Ms. Williams kept her business thriving was a testament to her determination and her amazing Lake Trout. By keeping her small business open, she helped sustain a local eco-system; meaning she employed people in the local area. There were businesses that benefitted locally from patrons standing in her lines, mom and pop vendors were patronized and there was constant foot traffic, which kept the area relatively safe. Simply by operating The Roost, Ms. Williams created a vibrant small business that was a pillar in the community and contributed greatly to the economic health of her neighborhood.
I find it interesting that a foundational memory, which affects my career today, took place at a locally owned small business. The amount of soul that small business owners put into their businesses leaves a lasting impression beyond goods and services. These micro institutions play intangible roles in our communities as sources of inspiration for future entrepreneurs, training grounds for young people getting first time jobs and gathering places. Yet in this moment, these vital small businesses are endangered and we all need to harness our enormous spending power to support them. I have watched my fellow restaurateurs struggle and close their doors in the midst of this economic crisis and it honestly feels like watching an endangered species die out. For this reason, I implore people to support those restaurateurs giving us diversity in flavor and food perspective, because we will lose something beyond a good meal if only chains and franchises make it through this crisis.
As I think about small business in general and The Roost in particular, I am grateful for this moment of reflection and remembrance. I also find myself very thankful for those melanated ancestors who cleared paths and blazed trails for the benefit of the community like Ms. Doris Williams. We can all agree that The Roost was a community gem that created many fond memories for a generation of people. Therefore, during the month of October, Fishnet will pay tribute to one woman’s entrepreneurial journey that fed a community and made them proud. We will serve Lake Trout and donate $2 from every sale in October to support Just Call Me Chef a Baltimore based advocacy group that highlights Black Women Chefs. We hope that you come and join us at Fishnet located at 520 Park Avenue in Mount Vernon Marketplace, we are opened from Tuesday – Sunday from 12pm -8pm.
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